​Interestingly over 40% of the grapes grown in Puglia belong to varieties that are described as native to the region. Native is usually understood to mean grapes that were initially born in a specific place, or, have been grown there for a significant period of time, usually thousands of years. So some native Puglian grapes may have their origins elsewhere and been imported by either the Greeks, Phoenicians or Roman soldiers. A significant proportion of the remaining grapes are of traditional varieties (i.e. those that have been grown in an area for usually at least 300-500 years). Therefore, when browsing the shelves at the local wine shop you will probably notice that there are fewer local wines made with "international" grape varieties than in some other areas of Italy. They do exist and you will definitely be able to find a Puglian merlot or chardonnay (indeed there are some very good ones available) but you will probably see a lot more names that you are unfamiliar with.
Also it can sometimes be more difficult to find the grape variety / varieties than you may expect. Many DOCs are based on a specific geographical location and often are based on a "blend" of grapes. Brindisi, Salice Salentino, Copertino, etc are examples of this. Similarly many IGP wines may just be described as from Salento (a sub-region of Puglia covering pretty much anywhere South of an arc running from Taranto to Brindisi). You will also find several wines just described as Red, Rosato or White!
However, here is our guide to some of our favourite wine varieties to help give you some ideas when staring at a shelf of unknown wines. ​

​1. Negroamaro
Not the most famous of Puglian grape varieties (yet) but it is the most abundant in the area because it copes very well with the heat and drought. It is my prediction that by 2023 this will be the "new" Italian wine being pushed in trendy wine bars in the UK and USA. According to official records it is actually called Negro Amaro but if you see that written anywhere I will be amazed. The meaning of the name is also a bone of contention with many telling you it comes mean black (negro) bitter (amaro). However, according to the National Registry it derives from the Greek and Latin words for black (mavros and niger) and so actually means black black - in reference to the dark colour of its grapes.
It is not a particularly subtle wine but I like its slightly rustic characteristics - it is what it is, like it or lump it. It makes a strong, robust, medium bodied red with big aromas and tastes of black fruits (cherry, blackcurrant, blackberry). It is also increasingly use to make rosé (called rosato here) wine which I avoided like the plague before moving to Puglia! However, rosato wines here tend to be much darker in colour, much less sweet and much more interesting on the nose and palate (almonds, strawberry, citrus fruits) and are well worth trying.

2. Primitivo
This is probably the grape variety you are most likely to have heard of as it is the one most often exported internationally. The name stems from "primo" (first) because this is traditionally the first of the grapes to ripen in the summer (harvest usually starts around the middle of August). There continues to be a fierce debate about whether primitivo, tribidrag (from Croatia) and zinfandel (USA) are actually the same or just very close relations. In Puglia this debate is further complicated by the split between Gioia del Colle Primitivo and Primitivo di Manduria the two separate DOCs producing primitivo wine.
If you are interested in wine I would recommend trying an example of both the above DOCs. Gioia del Colle is much higher and further inland so the wines tend to be a bit lighter and more graceful with a slightly herbal aroma. Manduria is close to the sea and endures much hotter temperatures so the wine tends to be slightly more jammy (at least on the nose). Both varieties are still big on the aromas and flavours of dark red fruit, ripe red cherries and plum jam. It also tends to lend itself to oak well and so many wines will have undercurrents of tobacco, smoke and liquorice. However, if primitivo has a fault, it is, in my opinion, that some producers over-oak the wine. Yes it adds some smooth complexity to it but it can easily turn into just another oaked red wine.
There are also some excellent rosato wines made from primitivo. The colour can change quite markedly depending upon how longer the winemaker has left the liquid in contact with the skins (typically somewhere between 8 and 24 hours).

3. Salice Salentino
This is the primary reason for specifying wine varieties rather than grape varieties because Salice Salentino DOC is actually an approved and controlled blend of grape varieties. Whilst the DOC accreditation covers multiple different blends (including I believe a white wine) in my book, the best Salice Salentinos are usually a blend of negroamaro and malvasia nera di Lecce grapes (usually at least 75% negroamaro). It can be confusing depending as the blend percentages and grapes are governed by some subtle changes in the exact DOC naming!
A Salice Salentino tends to be a little smoother and more "refined" than a purebred negroamaro but that is not necessarily a criticism.

4. Susumaniello
This dark grape variety is almost exclusively grown in Puglia (nearly 90% of all susumaniello vines are grown here). Until a few years ago it was thought that the variety might become extinct and it was certainly not in common use. Indeed it is only really within the last 10 years that this variety has made a comeback and there are now several winemakers producing susumaniello wines. The name derives from the local dialect and means "little donkey" or "load the little donkey" in reference to the fact that the vine tends to produce a huge number of grapes.
I like the unknown quality to this wine - winemakers are still experimenting with it to determine the best use either as a single variety wine or in a blend. The good wines I have tried tend to be quite plummy and quite different to many of the traditional reds that we know so well.

5. Ottavianello
This is another grape variety that has been rescued from the brink of extinction and is now gaining a foothold in the areas around San Vito dei Normanni and Ostuni. Almost 99% of ottavianello vines are found within Puglia - although there is some debate about whether it is actually different from the cinsaut or hermitage varities. It is usually used in a blend (often with negroamaro) but there are a couple of excellent wines made with 100% ottavianello.
The wine has a brilliant ruby red colour and aromas of red cherry, black pepper and codoa, whilst there is a hint of red orange on the palette.

1. Verdeca
Finally one for the white wine fans!! Another grape variety that is almost exclusively grown in Puglia (about 97% of all production). The name's root is "verde" after the colour of its grapes that often translates into a greenish tinge to the wine. Originally this grape was used in the production in vermouth rather than wine. Within the last 10 years Verdeca has been used increasingly in wine production and there are some interesting wines now available in both flat and sparkling format.
The wine tends to be fresh, light, crisp and refreshing - ideal for the heat of the Puglian summer - with notes of fresh herbs and green apples. I had never come across it before moving here and am becoming a bit of a fan.

2. Fiano
Fiano is allegedly one of the oldest wine cultivars in Italy with many people claiming that it was mentioned in some of the works by Pliny (although that is up for debate). Regardless it did arrive in Puglia from Campania in the 12th Century with King Federico II (who played a pretty important role in a lot of things in Puglia!). As recently as the 1970s, Fiano was a rare, almost forgotten grape variety - but now it is one of the most common Italian white wines.
Fiano is a steely, minerally wine with aromas of hazelnut, apple, pear and honey. It is definitely better as a dry wine rather than the sweet (dolce) versions that exist and is perfect for a hot summer's day.

3. Falanghina
This grape variety shares a very similar history to Fiano. Also mainly grown in Campania, it is believed to take its name from the Latin falangae (phalanx) because the poles used to support the vines resemble the typical Roman legion military formation. It is also a grape variety that was relatively uncommon up until even the 1990s but is now increasingly common - particularly in Campania (where 90% of falanghina grapes come from), although there are some very good Puglian wines too.
The wines tend to have a green leafy aroma with notes of early summer yellow fruits - apricot, peach and sweet apples. It probably isn't the most complex wine variety on the market but again it makes a great refreshing wine for a summer lunch with views over the pool or the sea.

4. Bianca d'Alessano
This wine is a little bit of a conundrum. It was mentioned for the first time only in the late 1800s but many experts believe that it its heritage is much older and that it was just an "undocumented" white grape grown in and around the Itria Valley. It is most often used as a blending grape (usually with Verdeca) used in such wines as the Locorotondo DOC. However, it can often get lost behind the verdeca and many experts claim that it is typically over-produced and a victim of the old style "make as much as possible" approach to wine making. That said there are a couple of really fantastic wines from the I Pastini (the vineyard is located just under the city walls and is well worth a visit after exploring Locorotondo's historic centre) and Apollonio wineries that mean this grape deserves its place on our list.
A good wine will have a pale straw colour and a floral / herbal aroma and taste with hints of passionfruit, banana, apricot and lychees. Hopefully, this is a local wine that will soon re-discover itself!

5. Bombino Bianco
Another grape almost exclusively grown in Puglia (+70%) that has a fairly mixed school report. It is another variety that has a history of being grown as a bulk wine on poorly planted vines that prevent the grapes from ripening properly. However, in recent years several winemakers (particularly around the Castel Del Monte region just north of Bari) have found that grown correctly and produced properly it is possible to create a very high quality wine. Interestingly, its name has nothing to do with "bombs" and in fact derives from the shape of its bunches which resemble a cuddling infant (bambino). It is claimed that the grape arrived in Puglia with the Knights Templar on their way to / from the Crusades.
The wines are a little creamer and more acidic than most white wines with a mineral flavour undercut with almonds, apricot and tropical fruits and an aniseed aroma. There are a couple of examples of it also being used to produce a sparkling white - although to date these tend to be produced outside Puglia.